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Dancing the wave : audacity, equilibrium, and other mysteries of surfing / Jean-Etienne Poirier ; translated by Michael H. Kohn.

Record details

  • ISBN: 1590300602
  • ISBN: 9781590300602
  • Physical Description: 159 pages : illustrations ; 21 cm
  • Edition: 1st Shambhala edition
  • Publisher: Boston : Shambhala ; [2003]

Content descriptions

Bibliography, etc. Note:
Includes bibliographical references.
Formatted Contents Note:
1. Wanderings of a Gremmie 7 -- First Sideskids -- One Mouthful at a Time -- Viva Mexico, Cabrones! -- Journey to Maine -- Utopian Wave -- Trip to Boston -- Quest -- 2. Some History 31 -- Prehistory -- Contact with the Water -- Matter of Boards -- Rocked by the Waves -- Visions of the West -- A New Wave -- Final Impetus -- Beat of the Ride -- Return to the East -- The 1980s: The Fun Years -- Scanning the Future -- 3. Planet Surf 61 -- Respect and Hope (The Storm) -- Waves, to Be Exact -- 4. Sirens and Other Metaphors of Nature 71 -- Becoming One with Nature -- Transformation and Death -- Immensity and the Minuteness of Nature -- 5. Women Surfers 81 -- A Gremmie's Point of View -- 6. Social Scene 91 -- From One Extreme to the Other -- Opposite of the Conditional Approach -- Philosophies of the Ephemeral -- Gentle Warriors and the Quest for the Center -- Between Two Bodies of Water -- Slide into Crime -- A Taste for Ecology -- Small-Time Politics and Localism -- Gloom and Doom and Outright Terror -- Artists of the Ride -- 7. Science and Impermanence 121 -- A Theme of Astonishing Power -- Thinking Movement -- Alternative Consciousness and Play -- Individuation -- Rejection of the Summons, Relic of Nomadism -- On the Notion of the Natural Man and the Citizen -- Motivation -- 8. Intuitive Search for Hopupu 135 -- A Mysterious Gliding -- Relationship with Oneself -- Joy -- An Opening -- Gliding in the Perpetual Present -- Deconditioning, Exchanges, and Revolutions -- Cultivating Confidence.
Subject:
Surfing.
Human ecology.
Surfers > Anecdotes.
Genre:
Anecdotes.

Available copies

  • 1 of 1 copy available at NC Cardinal. (Show)
  • 1 of 1 copy available at Onslow County Public Library.

Holds

  • 0 current holds with 1 total copy.
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Location Call Number / Copy Notes Barcode Shelving Location Status Due Date
Jacksonville Main Library 797.3 P C-90 (Text) 36015000631206 Adult Nonfiction Available -