Dancing the wave : audacity, equilibrium, and other mysteries of surfing / Jean-Etienne Poirier ; translated by Michael H. Kohn.
Record details
- ISBN: 1590300602
- ISBN: 9781590300602
- Physical Description: 159 pages : illustrations ; 21 cm
- Edition: 1st Shambhala edition
- Publisher: Boston : Shambhala ; [2003]
- Copyright: ©2003
Content descriptions
- Bibliography, etc. Note:
- Includes bibliographical references.
- Formatted Contents Note:
- 1. Wanderings of a Gremmie 7 -- First Sideskids -- One Mouthful at a Time -- Viva Mexico, Cabrones! -- Journey to Maine -- Utopian Wave -- Trip to Boston -- Quest -- 2. Some History 31 -- Prehistory -- Contact with the Water -- Matter of Boards -- Rocked by the Waves -- Visions of the West -- A New Wave -- Final Impetus -- Beat of the Ride -- Return to the East -- The 1980s: The Fun Years -- Scanning the Future -- 3. Planet Surf 61 -- Respect and Hope (The Storm) -- Waves, to Be Exact -- 4. Sirens and Other Metaphors of Nature 71 -- Becoming One with Nature -- Transformation and Death -- Immensity and the Minuteness of Nature -- 5. Women Surfers 81 -- A Gremmie's Point of View -- 6. Social Scene 91 -- From One Extreme to the Other -- Opposite of the Conditional Approach -- Philosophies of the Ephemeral -- Gentle Warriors and the Quest for the Center -- Between Two Bodies of Water -- Slide into Crime -- A Taste for Ecology -- Small-Time Politics and Localism -- Gloom and Doom and Outright Terror -- Artists of the Ride -- 7. Science and Impermanence 121 -- A Theme of Astonishing Power -- Thinking Movement -- Alternative Consciousness and Play -- Individuation -- Rejection of the Summons, Relic of Nomadism -- On the Notion of the Natural Man and the Citizen -- Motivation -- 8. Intuitive Search for Hopupu 135 -- A Mysterious Gliding -- Relationship with Oneself -- Joy -- An Opening -- Gliding in the Perpetual Present -- Deconditioning, Exchanges, and Revolutions -- Cultivating Confidence.
Search for related items by subject
- Subject:
- Surfing.
Human ecology.
Surfers > Anecdotes. - Genre:
- Anecdotes.
Available copies
- 1 of 1 copy available at NC Cardinal. (Show)
- 1 of 1 copy available at Onslow County Public Library.
Holds
- 0 current holds with 1 total copy.
Show Only Available Copies
| Location | Call Number / Copy Notes | Barcode | Shelving Location | Status | Due Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jacksonville Main Library | 797.3 P C-90 (Text) | 36015000631206 | Adult Nonfiction | Available | - |
